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Restoring Single Stage Paint: Part 7

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by Mike Phillips  More from Author

The final polishing steps.

Sealing up your results
After all the machine cleaning and polishing steps were over it was time to re-seal the paint. The first time I sealed the paint I applied Dodo Juice Banana Armour Paste Wax by hand. In this follow-up to the first segment in this article I'm doing each step by machine including applying a paste wax by machine.

Personally I prefer to apply all my waxes and paint sealants by machine because a machine will apply uniform pressure over the entire face of a foam buffing pad and do a really thorough job of pushing the wax or paint sealant over and into the paint to whatever level is possible.

Here's how to apply a paste wax by machine, (note this won't work with all paste waxes). To use the technique I'll show below you need to be able to remove the wax out of its container. If you can't remove the wax as one solid chunk out of the container then you can always scoop some out using a spatula or spoon or knife, etc.

How to apply a paste wax by machine
You'll need a DA Polisher like this Porter Cable 7424XP with a 5.5" Flat Gray Finishing Pad, Dodo Juice Banana Armour Hard Wax and some Microfiber Gloves. For this step you could substitute any quality finishing wax or paint sealant. Here's a list of finishing waxes, sealants and hybrids.

For this procedure I'm going to place a microfiber glove over one hand in order to hold the wax without contaminating it or without it slipping out of my hand.

To get the wax out of the plastic jar you just have to carefully knock it out using inertia by holding the jar upside down and then knocking it against your other hand with a Microfiber Glove on it.

Then hold the polisher in one hand and the wax in your other hand with the glove on it and blip the on/off button of the polisher while holding the wax against the face of the pad and you can quickly transfer wax to the pad.

The Microfiber Gloves keep the wax clean until you place it back into the jar and enable you to grip the wax so it doesn't slip out of your hand and onto the floor...

Ready to start laying down some Banana Armour...

It takes a little muscle to do this because in one hand you're holding the wax and the other hand is holding the polisher for the duration of time it takes to run the polisher over every square inch of the car. If you had a helper they could hold the wax with microfiber gloves on and you could use both hands to hold the polisher, then as you needed more wax your helper could apply the wax while you hold the polisher, otherwise hit the gym.

If you look carefully you can see I spelled out Dodo on the hood in my wax pattern...

In the forum world you'll often read people talking about getting the "Sun Shot" , that's where they pull their project car out into the sun to show there are no swirls in the paint.

The below shot is kind of like the "Sun Shot", but I call it the "Fun Shot" because I was just having some fun with the Dodo name in wax.

I used a rubberband to hold a Cobra Indigo Microfiber Bonnet over a 3" Griot's Garage Polishing Pad on a DA Polisher and took the wax off only where the word DODO was spelled out and then pulled the car into the sun for a "Fun Shot".

The Sun Shot Fun Shot

Yep, this is how you get the high overhead shot, you have to get up in the air a little ways...

Removing the wax
After capturing the fun shot I pulled the car back into our studio and let the hood cool down and then removed the wax by hand using Cobra Indigo Microfiber Towels. Always fold your towels 4 ways to give you 8 sides to wipe with and to provide cushion to spread out the pressure of you hand.

After removing the majority of the wax it's time to give the paint a final wipe. 

Shiny paint isn't complete with out dressing the tires...
For the tires I used the newly improved Detailer's Pride Gloss Tire Gel This tire gel leaves a nice dark sheen on your car's tires while leaving a durable polymer coating that blocks UV rays.

Here's the "Beauty Shot" with the final results

Here's a postcard from 1973... (Picture taken on May 2nd, 2010)

Here's another one...

And the parting shot before I hand the keys back over to the owner...

Here's all the products I used...

I included a selection of the different types of pads available in the Kompressor Line and the Flat Pad Line as I know some people reading this might not be aware there are plenty of options to choose from depending upon what you're working on and what you're trying to accomplish.

This is where the AutogeekOnline Auto Detailing Forum comes in handy, if you have any questions about products or process you can post them to our forum where our forum members and myself will do our best to post accurate and helpful answers.

Products Used
#7 Show Car Glaze
Detailer's Pride Waterless Wash
Cobra Deluxe Jr. 600 Microfiber Towels
XMT Speed Clay
XMT Speed Clay Lube
Dodo Juice Banana Armour Hard Wax
Soft, foam applicator pad
Porter Cable 7424XP
6" Kompressor Purple Heavy Cutting Pad
M80 Speed Glaze
Flex 3403 Lightweight Rotary Buffer
Grit Guard Universal Pad Washer
Mike Phillips' Principles of Machine Polishing
Wolfgang Finishing Glaze
5.5" Flat Foam Buffing Pad
XMT 360
5.5" Flat Gray Finishing Pad
Microfiber Gloves
Cobra Indigo Microfiber Bonnet
3" Griot's Garage Polishing Pad
Cobra Indigo Microfiber Towels
Detailer's Pride Gloss Tire Gel
Autogeek Show Car Garage Apron   

Not shown but probably the most used product throughout the entire project
Autogeek Insulated Tumbler

Restoring Single Stage Paint: Part 1
The secret to removing oxidation and restoring a show car finish to antique single stage paints.

Restoring Single Stage Paint: Part 2
Choosing the right polish.

Restoring Single Stage Paint: Part 3
Cleaning your paint.

Restoring Single Stage Paint: Part 4
Removing oxidation without abrasives.

Restoring Single Stage Paint: Part 5
Sealing the paint.

Restoring Single Stage Paint: Part 6
The first polishing steps.

Restoring Single Stage Paint: Part 7
The final polishing steps.


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